Iran Q&A

My British friend Chris and I in Isfahan

If I ever get to the point in life where I have an online mailbag, I’ll be elated.  For years I’ve read sports columns in this format...while envying the writers question by question.  So for my blog about Iran I’m getting to give the mailbag a shot...I hope you enjoy! (if anyone wants to send me emails about my sports opinions I could make that a mailbag too. What’s that? Nobody interested in that? Crickets...crickets....

Ok for real...

  

What was the most endearing aspect of Iranian culture? - Jordan and Lee Anne Johnson (Narok, Kenya)

Perhaps it's simplistic, but to me it still comes down to the people.  Nearly everyone we met took a genuine interest in us and warmly welcomed us to their country.  Those I met were keenly aware of their country's less than stellar global reputation, so it was important for them to show Iran as a friendly, welcoming place.  Just like any other country, the citizens don't necessarily agree with their government's decisions and policies, thus they're eager to help change that perception.  Regardless of their motivation, I saw Iranians as people who warmly welcome visitors...which is pretty endearing to a visitor.

As you already stated, the people are generally very nice compared to the "general consensus" or the politics of any country. Did you find that to be true, and who was the one person or personality that you met in Iran that really sticks out? Also, what was the one God thing that happened in Iran, because it seems that you got a Visa for a reason. -Scott Tageson

The average American doesn't have the most favorable view of Iran, and much of that is due to their political situation.  I as partially answered in Jordan's question; I did find the locals to be very kind and nonjudgmental.  One person who stands out to me is a man by the name of Amin, a man around my age, who I met in Isfahan.  He walked up to me and politely asked if I would have a conversation with him.  We talked for fifteen minutes or so about our countries, our jobs, our opinions, and our families.  At one point he asked me what I thought of the Iranian people and he seemed genuinely surprised that an American man spoke kindly of Iranian citizens.  Later he said, "You don't think that all of us are terrorists?"  "Of course not" I replied. He asserted (as did a variety of others that I met throughout my time there) that the negative opinions of Iran are the fault of American propaganda.  I assured him that the vast majority of Americans don't consider all Iranians to be terrorists and told him that it's a shame extremists can end up defining their home countries.  After we finished talking, he asked for a picture with his camera phone so that he could tell his friends that he met an American.  With a smile he departed and said "please greet your family and friends back home...pleasure to meet you." 

I would have liked more time to talk with Amin so that I could ask his opinions on his own government.  Even so, he was very engaging, kind, and intelligent, and I'll choose to remember Iran by Amin and people like him instead of their government.    

Did you have tea with anyone? If so, I'd like that story. -Michelle Arnold (Nashville, TN)

I actually didn't have tea with anyone, though I was invited.  On our last morning in Tehran, I stood on the elevator with a man and who told me he was in Tehran to take his wife to the hospital and we had the following conversation:

Iranian man: I came from far to take my wife to the hospital...she is a little unwell but should be ok.
Me:  Well I hope she gets well soon and is seen quickly today
IM: Yes, yes, thank you.  Do you have a wife?
M: No, I sure don't
IM: haha...oh, you see for me two wives, three wives...no problem!
M: (chuckles) yea, that would definitely be a problem for me
IM: Please...for tea?

So I did successfully get an invitation for tea, but I had to turn my new friend down because we were leaving for the city of Isfahan a few minutes later.
Another interesting elevator story...
In the same elevator several days later (we returned to Tehran to fly out), a man asked my friend Bev and I where we were from as we entered the elevator.  I've been a bit reluctant to divulge my nationality considering the tension between the US and Iran so I replied "Our group is from England." (I thought that was a clever response since I avoided the question without lying)  He said "I am from Iraq, why did you come destroy everything? Tony Blair destroyed everything!" I didn't really know how to respond to that and since he had a smile on his face I knew that he had no ill intentions toward me so I just said "If it were up to me, that wouldn't be."

How does Iran compare to the rest of Africa? –Adam Griffith (Ft. Myers, FL)

Sunset in the Iranian countryside

Funny question, Adam (he's joking about Iran being in Africa fyi).  My African experiences are isolated to Kenya and Uganda, and those countries are vastly different from Iran. For one, Iran is certainly more developed than eastern Africa.  The infrastructure is fairly good and modern convinces are readily available.  Kenyan roads are comically bad (but getting better...that new road from Nairobi to Narok is glorious!), whereas in Iran we enjoyed miles and miles of well paved interstate.  Perhaps the only way that Iran reminded me of Africa was in the scenery.  Like parts of Kenya, desert with sparse vegetation extend to brown mountains on the horizon.  This makes for beautiful sunrises and sunsets but little else. 
                Culturally, however, Iran and eastern Africa (and pretty much everywhere else I've been) are completely different.  In Iran, everything operates within the confines of the restraint of the Islamic government. Media is closely controlled; every newspaper and TV broadcast (at least all I saw) extols the government for its competence, lauds the national military strength, and portrays the west (specifically the USA) as arrogant aggressors intent on keeping Iran from prospering.  The most obvious way to see Islamic law is within the dress of the women.  At all times while in public, ladies must keep their heads, legs, and arms covered.  In Kenya and in maybe other parts of the world there's certainly a cultural dress code that should be observed, but this one felt different.  I think part of it is because there's a lack of color...everything is black, brown, or (if you're really getting flashy) dark blue.  In Eastern Africa you often see women in vibrant colors, and that's not the case in Iran. 

Hmmm, questions... here we go. On the whole how would you describe the demeanor of the people you encountered? Was there a consistent military presence? Did you ever feel/were you ever followed? Love you buddy be awesome. –Mike Sheagren (Ft. Myers, FL)                           
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

Demeanor of the people:  Overall, I'd say people are friendly and helpful in Iran. With the few exceptions of people being sullen and grumpy (like anywhere else), the Iranian people are wonderful.  Smiles are universal and I saw a lot in Iran.

Military: I actually didn't see much of a military presence.  Aside from a few bases and the like that we passed, I didn't see anything.  I did expect to see guards and men with guns everywhere but that was not the case. 

Were we followed:  When we got to our tour bus, I thought it was strange that we had 2 drivers plus one tour guide.  We were told that we had a backup driver for when our regular driver was tired. Our backup driver never touched the wheel and was as always careful to do a headcount each time we loaded up in the van.  He never said much and constantly kept a watchful eye on everyone.  He didn't speak a word of English but seemed like a nice, helpful guy. His presence may have been merely for security purposes, but regardless, we were monitored.                              

OzBus friends in Isfahan

Alright, that's it for the Iran mailbag...if you're interested in knowing more about my time in Iran, feel free to ask more questions. Also, if I have posted a ton of new pictures on Facebook...check em out here. I'll be posting about Nepal and the rest of my time in India in the next few days.  Thanks again for reading/supporting...