Amristar, India

Amritsar, India

After our semi-stifling week in Iran, I anticipated India being a refreshing change…it was.

When we arrived at the Tehran airport, I expected a bit of an ordeal going through customs and immigration.  As I learned from my border entry experience, the guards don’t see many US passports come through and considering all the “random” screenings given to middle eastern people in an American airport, reciprocity seemed certain.  However, I received a nonchalant passport stamp and passed through the second most lax airport security system I have ever seen without a single interruption. (The most lax I’ve ever seen was in Liberia, Costa Rica where I threw my bags on a cart that passed through something that resembled a drive through window more than an x-ray machine and walked through a metal detector that was supported on 3 sides by cinderblocks) 

We flew directly from Tehran to Amritsar, India, a small but significant town near the India-Pakistan border.  Our first afternoon we drove out to the border where every day the two nations engage in an elaborate ceremony.  Soldiers from each country assemble outside the government building within their respective national boundaries and demonstrate their marching techniques to an energetic crowd of roughly 3,000 people.  We sat on the Indian side and it was difficult to see what was going on behind the Pakistan border, but it seemed like each group of soldiers were doing the same sort of marches.  The ceremony culminates with each side opening the gate to their country and soldiers lowering the flags of their respective countries while saluting one another.  Perhaps the most entertaining part of it all is before the actual ceremony begins.  Loud, upbeat music plays as women take turns running the Indian flag up and down the street and then joyously dance together (men aren‘t allowed to run the flag…after seeing some teenage boys down there getting in line to run I thought I‘d give it a shot…nope…”Gents not allowed“).  After spending a week in Iran where at best women have to live in cultural restraint and at worst are an afterthought, seeing women honored and appreciated here was refreshing. The pageantry is fun, but the atmosphere is what makes the border ceremony so enjoyable.  If you’re not dancing, chanting, clapping, waiving a flag, or cheering, you’re at least smiling.  Maybe I was just enjoying the moment, but I felt a sense of great  national pride all around me without an ounce of nationalism.

After the border ceremony, we made our way to the Harmandir Sahib, or Sikh Golden Temple.  By the time we arrived, night had fallen and the temple was beautifully illuminated.  I didn’t know a thing about Sikhism, but I learned much by the atmosphere of the temple and the attitudes of the people.  An enormous marble entryway (one of four to signify openness to visitors) led us into the temple where a golden structure sits in the middle of a football field sized lake.  Though not crowded, the temple was most certainly full when we entered.  In every direction people prayed, meditated, slept, sang, and bathed.  The temple is open 24 hours to anyone, and they even feed thousands a day…all for free.  While walking around and taking it all in, my friend and fellow Oz-Bus tripper Frankie asked me “I know this isn’t your religion, but do you feel close to your God in here?”  To which I replied “Ten times out of ten I feel closer to God in nature…at the mountains or the beach.  Structures don’t do much for me.  However, I cannot help but appreciate these people who believe in something bigger than themselves and warmly welcome all comers.  They even feed them and give shelter if it’s needed.  I definitely feel God in that.”

My feeling of welcome was soon confirmed.  On a peninsula in the center of the lake stands the part of the temple that gives the namesake. Awal and I wanted to check it out, so we proceeded up the walkway to the golden building and ran into a long line.  At this point, we decided to turn back and pass on going inside the main part of the temple.  First of all, we weren’t sure if it would be disrespectful for us to enter, and second we thought the line would take a long while.  Seeing that we had turned around and started back the other direction, an older man in traditional Sikh dress gently snagged my t-shirt as I was passing by. “Why are you turning back?” he asked.  I replied that the line was long and I wanted to remain respectful.  With kindness and sincerity in his eyes he said “Please…please come inside.  The wait is not long, and you are most welcome here…please.”  This man knew good and well that I’m not Sikh, but he not only welcomed me, he urged me to go inside.  I smiled, thanked him and Awal and I turned back to enter. 

The entrance was packed, so we walked through in a semi-hurried crammed mess, but a respectful semi-hurried crammed mess nonetheless.  We passed through so quickly, that I struggle to remember may details aside from the fact that everything is ornate and either gold or red and in the very center, the Sikh holy scriptures sit with dozens of men and women sitting in worship.  Mostly I admired the devotion of these people and understood that likely someone near me was making their once in a lifetime trip to this holy place…a landmark life moment they’d never forget.  As we exited, two lines formed where people receive free food from one of the Gurus.  Initially, Awal and I walked past, again fearing we’d be disrespecting.  One of the Gurus made eye contact with me as we skipped around the line and to the exit…he smiled and motioned with his hand for us to get in line…so we did.  I approached his station (sort of a massive wok with a mound of mysterious brown mush) cupped my hands and received, from my new friend’s bare hands, my portion.  I’m still not entirely sure what it was I ate…something like cornmeal with brown sugar…but the makeup and taste of the food isn’t important…the act of giving and providing, however, is.  Departing from the temple that night I realized that like the people making their once in a lifetime pilgrimage, I too had an experience that I’d never forget.

More updates soon to come, including answers for the Iran questions.  My apologies for my lack of updates and pictures. I've not been able to update pictures because the connections have been painfully slow.  I hope to have good internet soon...but who knows?

Thanks so much for reading